Day 1 - Away We Go

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Our fellow traveler, friend, raconteur, philosopher... the keeper of our minutes... Aaron the Erudite... offers this insightful look at....

A Day in Iceland

I woke early, as directed the night before by our intrepid leader Beggi. It was the day I had been looking forward to all week. A day that promised adventure, thrills and an opportunity to something that I had never done before. It would test my courage and skill and I knew that I could rely on our group for help should I run into trouble.

I found the warmest clothes remaining in my by now depleted wardrobe and dressed in as many layers as possible, while still maintaining some degree of movement. Breakfast was wonderful once again, featuring the usual abundance of fish and game, eggs, bread and rolls, juice and coffee. I decided to eat a light meal in anticipation of unusual exertion. I chose a variety of fruits and added a large dollop of Skyr. Skyr, as we later learned is a combination of sheep and horse milk, blended together under great pressure generated by geothermal energy produced at a gigantic plant located safely away from Iceland’s total population of 3200.This was in the interest of safety as there was a 1 in 10 chance that the whole installation would explode if the area should experience the slightest tremor. In any event, enough Skyr is produced and distributed at this facility to supply the entire country. As was explained, a small amount of odor emitting sulphur compounds are left to remain as they prevent rusting in our pipes. Up to then I had thought that the culprit was cholesterol. But I digress…….

A quick stop at the room to check that my appearance was appropriate and then load up onto the bus. Back up to the room to retrieve the hat and gloves I had forgotten. Back onto the bus trying to ignore the glares from my fellow passengers for holding them up. I explained that it was Risa’s fault but I am not sure that everyone bought it.

Our trip passed through field after field of grass, grown to feed the native Icelandic horses whose manure was good for growing the grass. It seemed to me, if they were to just get rid of the horses there would be no reason to go to the effort of growing the grass and this vicious cycle could be interrupted. Fortunately I fell asleep and when I woke, my concern over the problem seemed to be less important.

My anticipation grew as we neared our destination. This was to be my first experience in climbing on a geisha. Having never visited Japan, my imagination was soaring as to what this would be like. When we arrived we were met by a lovely woman who was to be our guide. This was not what had anticipated as I was looking forward to something a bit more intimate but if this is the way it was to be done in Iceland, so be it. Her first instruction was to don a cumbersome lined jumpsuit….the exact opposite of what I had expected. Next I was ggiven a set of clamp-ons designed to prevent slipping. I had thought that all I had to do was to hold on tight. These were to be fastened, without choking myself, by a some sort of Gordian knot. I was eventually able to secure the device with the help of one of the assistant Sherpa guides. I am still wondering, haven’t these people ever heard of Velcro? He also corrected my misconception as to the activity explaining that we were to actually climb on a large pack of ice called a glacier. It was my error in not having read the pre-trip itinerary carefully enough. I was then handed an ice axe which I presumed was to be used on the fellow climber in front of me if he were to deviate from the straight line we were to follow each other on. I noted that as we began our trek, he seemed a bit intimidated by the incline. I wondered if he was Eric the Yellow. Being in the front of the line, I was able to have a conversation with our ladyguide. She related that while her mother was a native of Iceland, her father, Dieter, was German by birth. Her name was Dottie Dieterdottir, but she was generally called D Do. Sure was a lot easier.

As we followed her fully equipped figure, referring of course to the paraphernalia she had tied to her body, it became evident that I was dressed in a way more suited to Antarctica in mid-winter than I was for the Icelandic summer. She explained that the weight of the lava, covering the snow, in addition to the force of gravity, was responsible for the formation of the ice. She related that they have gravity over most of the island, which is also responsible for keeping the herring under water. Those areas of Iceland without gravity are utilized to raise onions which , in such an environment, are able to rise out of the ground and are used to flavor the herring.

The impact of global warming was startling. D Do informed us that when she had led a group the day before, the glacier had extended more than a mile further out. The previous week, melting of the ice had revealed a cleavage ( with no intended reference to the geisha) or crevasse as it is known in Icelandic, with a fully frozen Viking family in an early VW bug, out for a picnic of hakarl and Brennivin. Carbon dating of the father places the approximate date as the year 712.Too bad Leif Ericsson. As we set out,we were instructed on how to walk like a duck. If this was meant to fool any ducks, it was a wasted effort as there was not one to be seen.

I suspect that the elaborate preparations were only meant to heighten the sense of adventure. This was confirmed on our walk down to our bus as we encountered another group on their way up. They were clad in shorts and T shirts with flip-flops on their feet. They did not seem to be having any difficulty. Perhaps they were on a cheaper tour. We were to return our equipment but I was able to hide my ice-axe to keep as a souvenir. Unfortunately it was confiscated at the airport security. I was able to sneak out a photo of D DO however, which was actually more appealing than the axe. I have been sleeping with it ever since.

After a shot of vodka over cubes of frozen lava, I was able to reflect on a wonderful day,even more exciting than watching the lilies grow the following day. Mainly because of the vodka.

D-Do Live

Aaron paid rapt attention, and it paid off.

Here he is at the head of the class.

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Day 2 - Untamed Iceland

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We arrived in Reykjavik in the early AM after an overnight flight. WOW is not just the name of Iceland's low-cost airline... it accurately describes what the locals themselves call Untamed Iceland. Iceland is about the same geographic size as Kentucky, and has a population of about 310,000 people, making it the 176th most populous country... so Unspoiled Iceland might be as accurate a description. Well over half of the island's population lives in the capital, Reykjavik.

We had breakfast at our hotel and got acquainted with our 14 fellow travelers and our tour guide, Beggie. Then Jan went on a walk about the city with the others while I took a short nap. Jan left the group to their shopping then and came back to the hotel so we could go check out the local hot spring (I know, some things are so predictable). We weren't disappointed... these people know from relaxing in hot water! The lockers and locker room systems are state of the art, all computerized... I got scolded for not doing things in the right order as far as showering and keeping the floor of the locker areas dry. I was properly contrite, and the guy felt bad about being so hard on me, I guess... on my way out to the pools, he caught up to me and said, 'You're American? Obama good man!' I gave him a thumbs up, and we shook hands and parted best of friends!

We ended our first day in Untamed Iceland with a very civilized Welcome Dinner at our Hilton Hotel. We had a great group of people, all interesting and curious and well traveled. In the small world department, one of the men is a math professor who happens to live near and play in bridge tournaments with Jan's brother-in-law. And one of the men is a pediatrician who worked at Boston Children's Hospital at the same time Jan was there doing her graduate field placement.

Statue of the Unknown Bureaucrat

It didn't take us long to find hot water...

Day 3 - That's Just How It Is

We'll depart Reykjavik after breakfast and head into the rolling meadows of the verdant Borgarfjordur agricultural district, where we'll view one of Iceland's powerful hot springs. In a country known for its thermal hot springs (there are hot springs in 250 districts around the country), the Deildartunguhver thermal area is in a class by itself. Emitting nearly 50 gallons of boiling water per second, it has the highest flow of any hot spring in Europe. The water that emerges here reaches temperatures of 212 degrees F and has been used for heating since 1925, making Iceland a pioneer in sustainable energy.

We'll also view the "magic waterfalls" of Hraunfossar, a 2,900-foot stretch of lava where crystal-clear springs splash through rocks and birch-scrub before tumbling into a river that unexpectedly appears from beneath the lava's edge.

As we continue through the unspoiled landscape, we enjoy views of colorful mountain cliffs, pristine fjords, and fertile valleys where wild horses graze. This is the region that inspired 13th-century poet and native son Snorri Sturluson, the most celebrated figure in Icelandic/Nordic literature. We'll discover some of Iceland's Saga-like history at the Settlement Center in Borgarnes. This award-winning center retells the Norse settlement of Iceland, giving us an insight into the country's founding.

After lunch on our own, we drive to Helgafell ("holy mountain"), a sacred hill about 250 feet high. Those who want to hike to the top may earn a wish—if you follow tradition and climb silently to the top without looking back!

Then we continue to Stykkisholmur, the largest town on scenic Snaefellsnes Peninsula, with important ties to trade and religion. It was once a center of devotion to the Norse god Thor. The town's location makes it an ideal jumping-off point for many of Iceland's highlights, including Snaefellsnes Peninsula National Park.


Beggie genuinely enjoys showing people around his country.
His laughter and enthusiasm are infectious.

Our guide Beggie's favorite refrain is 'That's just how it is.' Like every OAT guide we have had, Beggie is both knowledgeable and passionate about the place he calls home... and his great sense of humor immediately endeared him to all of us in the group. His wife is home installing tile on everything in sight while he shows us his country. Don't ask!

Today we headed for the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Or, as we liked to call it, the Sniffle Nose Peninsula. The Icelandic language has 32 letters and a fondness for double consonants, making many of the words difficult to pronounce, to say the least. Beggie says that they try to have their own words for things, even for technical and scientific terms - That's just how it is! On our way to Stykkisholmur on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula we saw our first of many waterfalls, and our first up close look at the ubiquitous geothermally heated water that seeps up through the lava beds that comprise so much of the island.

Speaking of Icelandic words for things...

... that's downright onomatopoetic!

We had lunch along the way in Borgarnes after which we toured a small museum devoted to the settlement of Iceland. Due to the small population and the isolation, a great many of Iceland's inhabitants are closely related. So much so that there is a phone app for residents to quickly determine if they are related... this is particularly handy for young people looking for love. Yep, there's an app for that!

Then we stopped and hiked up the 250 foot Mount Helgafell, where local folklore has it that if you hike to the top without uttering a sound and without looking back, you are granted a wish. My wish came true as it turns out that Jan and I are not related by blood. Whew!

You get a wish if you climb this hill in silence without looking back.

Day 4 - The Center Of The Earth

This morning in Snaefellsnes Peninsula, we'll explore the area that marks the entry point to Jules Verne's Journey to the Center of the Earth.

We'll continue to the abandoned fishing village of Arnarstapi, known for its constantly changing weather. The village is situated along a coastline punctuated by fascinating geologic features like arches, caves, basalt cliffs, and blowholes. We'll hike to a yellow-sand beach and along the dramatic rocky coastline followed by lunch in the Hellnar valley. Keep an eye out for the tiny elves and huldufólk ("hidden people") said to inhabit this countryside.

Then we'll discover another side of Icelandic culture on a visit to a shark farm. Here we'll have the opportunity to meet a shark farmer and taste a national delicacy—hákarl, made from aged shark meat and served with a potato liquor called brennivín. It's not for the faint of heart, but our host will help us understand the Icelandic legacy of processing shark meat, as well as the country's maritime history.

Or, join an optional excursion to beautiful Breidarfjordur Bay. You’ll enjoy a boat cruise around the islands to view the scenic splendor (and myriad birdlife when in season) and dine on fresh seafood for dinner before returning to the hotel.


Sometimes it's hard to tell where to point the camera...

Then we boarded a boat for some bird watching and more time on the water... yay! They drug a net behind the boat and brought up oysters, scallops, and other slimy creatures which we sampled immediately (Well, Jan did anyway!). We also had an actual cooked dinner on board... thank you!

Puffins with their large colorful beaks are always a good catch.

Day 5 - History & Horses

After breakfast this morning, we'll depart Stykkisholmur for the Eiriksstadir Museum, once the site of the home of Erik the Red, father of the legendary Viking Leif Eiriksson. Known as "Leif the Lucky," Erik's famous son visited North America around 1000 AD, well ahead of Christopher Columbus. The family occupied this farmstead until Leif was six years old, at which time they were exiled and went to Greenland. We'll learn more about their story from historic interpreters at this living museum.

Then we'll visit a local horse farm to meet affable Icelandic horses first brought to the country by Viking settlers. Icelandic horses are a common sight across the countryside. A unique breed, they've adapted to the local climate with a thick, heavy coat. Though small in size, their strength is formidable, and they're known for their cheery disposition, bravery, intelligence, and smooth gait. We'll learn more about these horses, and their place in Icelandic culture, as we hear firsthand from the family that owns the horse farm. We'll also enjoy lunch at the horse farm.

Afterwards we'll continue to Akureyri, Iceland's second largest urban area. Situated on the northern fjords just 40 miles from the Arctic Circle, Akureyri is improbably sunny and enjoys a mild climate in spite of its location.

Around a fire in this replica of Erik The Red's mud house...

This man had us in stitches recounting the history of the famed Leif Erickson...

While this woman defended the castle!

And then a tour and lunch at a horse farm. In the interest of keeping the Icelandic breed of horses pure, and not introducing any diseases, no horses can be imported... and if a horse leaves the country, it may not ever return. Since these horses are such social animals, it is illegal to own just one... you must have at least two. And the horses are left alone for the first four years of their lives so they can develop with their own individual personalities and termperaments. And they are never broken... only gently trained. When being ridden for any distance, an extra horse is taken along for each rider so the horses can be spelled along the trip. As short as they are, they are stout and can carry a person of any size.

Day 6 - Whales & A Song

After breakfast this morning, we head for the picturesque fishing village of Dalvik, where we'll set sail on a restored fishing vessel from the harbor for a whale-watching excursion. The onboard staff members are experts on local marine life, and with their help, we hope to spot minke whales, white-beaked dolphins, harbor porpoises and humpback whales in the waters of the Northern Atlantic.

Then, we stop at the fishing village of Olafsfjordur, followed by a visit to Siglufjordur, Iceland's northernmost town. At one time, Siglufjordur was the capital of the North Atlantic's herring industry, and after lunch at a local restaurant here, we'll visit a museum dedicated to this once thriving industry. The Herring Era Museum—the only one of its kind in the world—features a variety of cultural exhibits, art works, and personal stories relating to Siglufjordur's rich fishing heritage. There will also be free time to explore the picturesque town on our own.

Back in Akureyri, you’ll have some free time to relax before enjoying a Home-Hosted Dinner this evening.

Nothing goes to waste in this remote and pristine land. Even scraps of lumber find a use...

I told Jan I didn't mean she was scrap.
She said, 'Don't worry about it.'

On the whale watch, we found one rather desultory humpback whale, and watched it for a while. We see whales every year at the Cape, so we weren't too disappointed, and we always love a boat ride. Some of the group did some fishing for a short while on the way back, catching some sea catfish, some herring and, I think, hake... which were cleaned and grilled as soon as we got back, so we all had a fresh taste of these Icelandic staples.

About 45 minutes from catch to our mouths. How fresh is that?!! Yum!

Chess is very popular in this remote country. Our hotel in Reykjavik was only a few blocks from the venue for the famous Fisher - Spaasky World Championship Match in 1972. This remote fishing village sports this oversize chess set. Icelander's also read more books per capita than any other nation. The winters are long and dark! While we were there in June, it only got dark for an hour or so, about 2:00 AM... and in the winter, it only gets light for a brief time each day.

Arne and Michael in Siglufjordur

Our driver, Eliot, and his wife, Helga, live in Akureyri, and surprised us one evening on the way back to the hotel with h'ordeuvres and a drink at their lovely home.

Our home hosted dinner was a real treat. We went to the home of a young Icelandic couple and their twin sons for an evening dinner. They speak excellent English, and were comfortable just being themselves around all us strangers. The idea is to meet local people and learn a bit about their culture by breaking bread with them.

Homes in Iceland are heated with the abundant geothermally heated water, which runs through pipes in the houses. These folks even have a heated driveway! Herewith the system controls in the garage of our hosts.

OAT travelers usually take a token gift of some kind, often something from their home state, to give to these hosts. This wonderful couple reciprocated with a little jar of homemade jam for all of us. And a song!