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Thursday

Day 3 - That's Just How It Is


We'll depart Reykjavik after breakfast and head into the rolling meadows of the verdant Borgarfjordur agricultural district, where we'll view one of Iceland's powerful hot springs. In a country known for its thermal hot springs (there are hot springs in 250 districts around the country), the Deildartunguhver thermal area is in a class by itself. Emitting nearly 50 gallons of boiling water per second, it has the highest flow of any hot spring in Europe. The water that emerges here reaches temperatures of 212 degrees F and has been used for heating since 1925, making Iceland a pioneer in sustainable energy.

We'll also view the "magic waterfalls" of Hraunfossar, a 2,900-foot stretch of lava where crystal-clear springs splash through rocks and birch-scrub before tumbling into a river that unexpectedly appears from beneath the lava's edge.

As we continue through the unspoiled landscape, we enjoy views of colorful mountain cliffs, pristine fjords, and fertile valleys where wild horses graze. This is the region that inspired 13th-century poet and native son Snorri Sturluson, the most celebrated figure in Icelandic/Nordic literature. We'll discover some of Iceland's Saga-like history at the Settlement Center in Borgarnes. This award-winning center retells the Norse settlement of Iceland, giving us an insight into the country's founding.

After lunch on our own, we drive to Helgafell ("holy mountain"), a sacred hill about 250 feet high. Those who want to hike to the top may earn a wish—if you follow tradition and climb silently to the top without looking back!

Then we continue to Stykkisholmur, the largest town on scenic Snaefellsnes Peninsula, with important ties to trade and religion. It was once a center of devotion to the Norse god Thor. The town's location makes it an ideal jumping-off point for many of Iceland's highlights, including Snaefellsnes Peninsula National Park.


Beggie genuinely enjoys showing people around his country.
His laughter and enthusiasm are infectious.



Our guide Beggie's favorite refrain is 'That's just how it is.' Like every OAT guide we have had, Beggie is both knowledgeable and passionate about the place he calls home... and his great sense of humor immediately endeared him to all of us in the group. His wife is home installing tile on everything in sight while he shows us his country. Don't ask!

Today we headed for the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Or, as we liked to call it, the Sniffle Nose Peninsula. The Icelandic language has 32 letters and a fondness for double consonants, making many of the words difficult to pronounce, to say the least. Beggie says that they try to have their own words for things, even for technical and scientific terms - That's just how it is! On our way to Stykkisholmur on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula we saw our first of many waterfalls, and our first up close look at the ubiquitous geothermally heated water that seeps up through the lava beds that comprise so much of the island.









Speaking of Icelandic words for things...




... that's downright onomatopoetic!


We had lunch along the way in Borgarnes after which we toured a small museum devoted to the settlement of Iceland. Due to the small population and the isolation, a great many of Iceland's inhabitants are closely related. So much so that there is a phone app for residents to quickly determine if they are related... this is particularly handy for young people looking for love. Yep, there's an app for that!

Then we stopped and hiked up the 250 foot Mount Helgafell, where local folklore has it that if you hike to the top without uttering a sound and without looking back, you are granted a wish. My wish came true as it turns out that Jan and I are not related by blood. Whew!











You get a wish if you climb this hill in silence without looking back.


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